Iris in perfumery
Working with iris in a fragrance is an exploration of a rare and captivating material, where each note reveals a quiet luxury. Including it in a composition, whether as the star or in support of other ingredients, is a perfumer’s privilege.
Orris, often called "blue gold," has fascinated people for centuries. Its petals have inspired artists like Van Gogh, while its rhizome was cherished at the court of Catherine de' Medici, dried and ground to release its unique fragrance. This root, a symbol of refinement, offers a complex palette of nuances, from powdery softness to earthy depth.
The powdery notes of iris evoke the elegance of royal courts and the "old-fashioned" charm of rice powders, traditionally made from rice starch to create a matte and delicately scented finish.
Although somewhat anchored in classicism, this portrayal can be reimagined, freeing itself from the realms of makeup and a bygone vision of femininity. Its floral, woody, earthy, and even vegetal facets inspire perfumers towards versatile, modern, and chic horizons.
The varieties of iris used in perfumery
The scent of iris flowers is generally soft and subtle, with floral, powdery notes and sometimes a hint of violet. But in perfumery, it is not the flower that is used: it is the rhizomes (thickened roots), which, after several years of drying, yield precious extracts such as orris butter, concrete orabsolute.
- Iris pallida also known as the Florence iris in its commercial use, this is the most prized variety for its delicate fragrance and soft, slightly sweet powdery notes. Primarily cultivated in Italy, this iris is renowned for producing high-quality iris butter.
- Iris germanica More common and robust, it is also used for its rhizome, although it is less fragrant than iris pallida. However, it brings earthy and woody facets that add depth to compositions.
- Iris florentina Once more widely used, this white iris is now less commonly cultivated, but it is still appreciated for its delicate aroma and its floral, powdery notes.
In perfumery, pale-flowered varieties such as iris pallida or florentina are preferred —not for the scent of their blooms, but for the superior olfactory quality of their rhizomes, namely their concentration of irones. Varieties with deeper or more intense flower colors, on the other hand, are mainly grown for ornamental purposes.
Orris Butter
The precious essential oil of iris, often referred to as “butter,” is obtained by steam distillation of the dried rhizomes of Iris pallida. This slow and costly process releases the irones, fragrant molecules responsible for the powdery and woody signature of iris. Depending on the iris variety and drying duration—sometimes up to three years—the concentration of alpha irone (soft, floral notes reminiscent of violet) and, to a lesser extent, beta irone (more earthy, woody, almost leathery tones) can vary. Some butters also reveal green or metallic facets, reminiscent of fresh root or carrot, to the point that perfumers sometimes use carrot seed essential oil to echo this vegetal nuance from the very top notes of a composition.
Iris concrete
Another noble extract from the rhizome, iris concrete is obtained through extraction with volatile solvents. Its waxy, dense texture retains great olfactory richness, though more raw than orris butter. It reveals a darker, deeper iris character with earthy, slightly leathery nuances. While occasionally used as is in perfumery, iris concrete is mostly processed further to obtain the absolute. Less concentrated in irones than orris butter, it nonetheless provides appreciated texture and lasting power in woody, oriental or fruity accords.
Iris absolute
Iris absolute results from washing the concrete in alcohol, followed by slow evaporation. This process isolates the most delicate and floral part of the iris scent. More supple and easier to incorporate into a formula, the absolute reveals a cosmetic, powdery facet while maintaining a beautiful woody depth. Its irone content can reach 15 to 20% depending on quality, making it a prized material in fine perfumery for its luminous elegance and ability to structure a graceful, long-lasting trail.
Synthetic iris notes
Its high cost and rarity lead perfumers to turn to synthetic alternatives to recreate the many olfactory dimensions of iris.
Among them, ionones —alpha, beta, methyl, gamma or dihydro-beta—play a crucial role in crafting so-called “iris-like” accords. These molecules capture the elegant powderiness and the woody softness of iris, while subtly evoking the scent of violet, to which they are chemically related. Some ionones reveal fruity, green or musky undertones, bringing depth and modernity to the accord:
‣ alpha ionone brings floral woody elegance,
‣ bêta ionone, softer, adds a velvety, violet-fruity nuance,
‣ dihydro-bêta ionone Develops floral notes as well as woody, earthy, ambery, and fruity facets.
‣ méthyl ionone, a cornerstone of iris/violet accords, ensures excellent powdery, floral, and woody hold.
In parallel, irones, naturally present in orris butter or absolute, embody the very soul of natural iris, with their powdery, floral and earthy notes, sometimes veiled with a metallic trace. Together, ionones and irones allow the iris to resonate between timeless refinement and contemporary reinterpretation.
Additional materials such as Orris Hexanone, Orris Givco®, Vertenex®, or Vertofix® contribute further subtleties, preserving natural iris while enhancing its complexity.
Orris Hexanone : also known as Orivone®, this synthetic molecule reproduces the powdery and earthy notes of iris with fresh and green nuances evocative of the rhizomes.
Orris Givco® : developed by Givaudan, this material is designed to mimic iris absolute and iris butter, bringing woody, earthy, and powdery notes with a vintage touch.
Vertenex® : this molecule developed by IFF, brings woody and amber notes, often used to strengthen a fragrance’s structure and extend its longevity.
Vertofix® : also developed by IFF and known as Methyl Cedryl Ketone, it is used for its woody and amber notes with violet nuances, and sometimes a slightly leathery quality.
Boisiris® : this material from Givaudan reproduces woody notes with a distinctive touch of violet and iris. The elegance and depth of its woody and earthy facets balance the floral softness.
Iris in Superfumista's fragrances
In our collection, iris concrete is used in the formulation of three of our creations.
Plum de Velours showcases iris concrete enhanced by a range of ionones, languidly infusing a velvety, rich, and indulgent candied plum accord.
In Nu Blanc, iris is enhanced by other powdery ingredients such as alpha isomethyl ionone and heliotropin.
The materials accompanying iris butter in Oud Galant feature woody and powdery facets, including alpha ionone, beta ionone, and a material known as Boisiris®.
